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T-Tape and Strap Method: Making the T-Tape

Supply Listing

  • Medical tape. 3M Micropore paper tape in the 2 inch (5 cm) width is recommended. Some people use other tapes, but the paper seems most effective. In any event, use the 2 inch (5 cm) width, though it may seem awfully wide at first. Incidentally, "Micropore" is 3M's hospital name for this tape. At your local drugstore, it's merely labeled "3M Paper First Aid Tape," with "Micropore" in very small print. Walgreens stores carry it, among others.

  • Label backing material. Some people have recommended the use of ordinary waxed paper for this item, but many have reported (and I've found) that it's not very effective. Cake decorator's parchment paper reportedly works too, but the backing paper from continuous form labels or standard mailing or shipping labels is a plentiful resource at my office and works great.

  • Scissors. Any nice, sharp pair will do.

  • Tailor's tape measure. This is a tape measure, available at fabric stores in the "notions" department, that is made from fabric and is flexible. You can use a heavy string and a ruler if you don't have the tailor's tape.

  • Pen or marker. A felt tip is best. Make sure that the pen or marker uses water-based ink. You'll be using this on your skin, so look specifically for a pen or marker that has non-toxic, non-permanent ink and says so on the packaging. A fine point is helpful.

Assembly

1. Measure the circumference of your erect penis. The circumference is the distance around the shaft. Use the tailor's tape measure to make this measurement. Remember, you need the circumference of your erect penis, since the tape is applied while erect.
(No picture.) 2. Add an inch. Add one inch (2.5 cm) to the circumference measurement. This is your unique value to the "L" (length) measurement which is used later.
(No picture.) 3. Cut the backing piece. Whatever material you're using for a backing, such as the label backing paper, cut a piece measuring about 2 inches (5 cm) by "L" inches (as measured earlier).
4. Fold the backing piece in half, lengthwise, slick side out. You should have a backing piece that measures about an inch (2.5 cm) by "L" inches, with the slick side exposed. Crease the fold firmly.
(No picture.) 5. Decide on the appropriate width. The next step is deciding how much exposed adhesive you want to contact the skin on your penis. Frankly, longer penises can accommodate more surface area of tape, but regardless, about 1-1/4 inches (about 3 cm) of total surface area of tape stuck to you is adequate. Start there, and adjust accordingly is my recommendation.
(No picture.) 6. Divide the width in half. If you do an inch and a quarter as recommended, half that is 5/8 of an inch (1.5 cm). This is the value of "W1" (width one) which you'll use later.
7. Draw a guide line. Unfold the backing paper. On the back "paper" side, where it's not shiny or slick, use a pen and draw a line, "W1" inches from the fold, parallel to the fold. (If you're using waxed paper, this is not going to be possible, but you can guess where the line should be when you later make the tape itself.)
(No picture.) 8. Refold the backing. Fold the backing piece as it was, slick side out, and crease the fold line again.
9. Apply the first side of tape. Working on a stick-free surface, such as a clean and grease-free plastic cutting board, place the folded backing piece on the work surface. The fold should be away from you, and should run left to right as you look at it. The guide line you drew earlier should be visible through the backing piece. (If it's not, you will have to guess or use your imagination.) Unroll some of the tape, and starting at the left edge, press the lower edge of the tape against the guide line, making sure the edge of the tape is even with the edge of the backing piece.

You should note that the bulk of the sticky side of the tape is now sticking to your work suface and overhangs the backing. (If you're using 2 inch (5 cm) tape, and "W1" is 5/8 inches (1.5 cm), then 1-3/8 inches (3.5 cm) is hanging over the edge of the backing and onto your work surface.)
(No picture.) 10. Trim the first side of the tape. Remove the assembly from your work surface, and use the scissors and cut the tape even with the right side of the backing piece. What should result at this point is a piece of tape, 2 inches (5 cm) in width, and "L" inches in length, with 5/8 inches (1.5 cm) of that tape stuck to the folded backing piece, and 1-3/8 inches (3.5 cm) stuck to nothing (since you took it off your work surface).
(No picture.) 11. Turn it over. Turn the assembly over onto your work surface, with the exposed adhesive surface of the tape facing up, again with the folded edge of the backing piece away from you. Again, the "L" measurement should run left to right as you look at it. What you should see now is 1-3/8 inches (3.5 cm) of exposed tape farthest away from you, and about an inch of slick backing material closest to you.
12. Apply the second side of the tape. You will need to work very carefully during this step. Essentially, repeat what you did when you stuck down the first side of the tape. You'll have to be very careful to align things, since the sticky sides of the tape will be sticking to each other, and once stuck, can't be easily unstuck. Don't unroll much of the tape to begin with, and work slowly. Make sure you align the edges of the tape together along the top edge (the edge farthest away from you). Don't worry about the guideline you drew on the back; just work to align those top edges together so that there is no adhesive peeking out on either side.
13. You're almost done! What you should have at this point is a finished t-tape assembly. If you unfold the backing piece at this point, and look at the assembly from the left or right side, you'll see it has a "T" shape, which is where the t-tape gets its name. You should have 1-3/8 (3.5 cm) inches of tape, a double thickness, where the two pieces are bonded together. Below, you'll have two 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) exposed portions of tape – a total of 1-1/4 inches (3 cm) of adhesive – that you will later stick to your penis.
14. Make a trim. The very last step is to cut a chunk of the tape off. Refold the backing piece along the previous fold line so the assembly sits flat. Position the assembly on your work surface as you had it before (the "L" measurement runs left to right as you look at it). Except – this time, put the folded edge facing you. The portion of the assembly that's closest to you now is the 1-3/8 inches (3.5 cm) of doubled tape; the entire backing portion is away from you at this point. Measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the right edge, and trim in a straight line away from your body through the doubled tape toward the backing piece. TRIM UP TO – BUT NOT INTO – the backing piece. Turn the assembly 90 degrees clockwise. Cut away from you as before, along the folded edge, right up to the previous cut. Remove the piece you've now cut completely out of the assembly.
15. Assembly finished. You're done. If the piece is still flat on your work surface, you'll have a rectangular shaped assembly with a large notch cut out of one corner. If you unfold the backing again now, you'll see the "T" shape again, except now there's a 1 inch piece of the "T's" leg missing from one edge, with two 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) tape tabs still stuck to the backing where you cut the notch out. You can probably guess how this goes on, but instructions follow.

Application

If you have an elastic strap made or otherwise procured (instructions on the next page) and are ready to apply everything, here's how.

(No picture.) 1. Mark the line of equilibrium for tape positioning. The center line of the tape (the line along the fold) needs to be positioned along the "line of equilibrium" on your penis shaft skin. To establish this line, using your pen, you will have to mark dots along your penis shaft skin, at each point establishing the equilibrium at that point and then marking it. When you connect the dots with the center line of the tape, a balanced tension will result. You should establish and mark the equilibrium at at least four, and preferably six equal points around the shaft.

To establish an equilibrium point, grasp your non-erect penis with your hand, and move it and your shaft skin forward over the glans as far as possible. Along the line where the skin folds over itself, lightly pinch the skin, pulling at it slightly. Roll the skin in one direction or the other until the tension you feel on the skin is roughly equal between the inner and outer surface of the skin. When it's equal, mark the skin folded between your fingers with your pen right on the edge of the fold, and release. Continue this at various points along the circumference of your penis until you have marked between four and six equally spaced points.

Again, when applying the tape, the center line of the tape, that which was formed along the fold of the backing material, is placed along the line you marked.

NOTE: The line of equilibrium changes as you develop new skin, and it must be reestablished regularly. Also, if you do not have enough skin to push forward onto the glans, you can begin by positioning the tape along the circumcision scar. The scar is the line separating the former inner foreskin (the skin that in Caucasians is redder or darker just under the glans) and the rest of the shaft skin (which is normal flesh color).

(No picture.) 2. Be erect. The t-tape is applied while you're erect, so induce an erection using whatever means you wish. Some people have indicated that manual skin tension is fine for applying the t-tape, but it's unlikely you'll be able to manage the tape and pulling skin all at the same time with only two hands available.
3. Apply the tape. This may take some practice to get "right." Take the t-tape assembly you made earlier, and peel a small portion of the backing off from the end opposite the notch you cut out.

Once you get it applied (as shown in the picture) you should work with the leg of the "T" flat against the penis shaft, pointing downward or upward, whichever seems easiest to you (the pictures that follow show it upward). Along the previous backing piece fold line, stick the tape down on your erect penis. Again, align the center line of the exposed adhesive, where the backing piece fold used to be, with the dots on your penis you made a moment ago.

As I said, this may take a little practice to get it right.

4. Finish applying the tape. Carefully remove the backing, working around your penis, keeping the center line aligned with the dots. When you come to the end, you'll notice what's left are two 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) tabs that overlap. Stick down the one opposite the leg of the tape first, then pull the leg of the "T" tape in the opposite direction, and stick down the second tab.
5. Check it! You should have the tape wrapped around your penis. Since you applied it while erect, erections won't cause stress on the tape itself, nor will it constrict blood flow while erect.
(No picture.) 6. Clip to the leg (or other) strap. Wait for your erection to subside at least partially. Grab onto the leg of the "T" and pull it forward over your glans as far as possible. Gather the end of the "T" in an accordian style fold, and clip the elastic strap's suspender clip to the end of the folded-up "T" tape leg. The more evenly you gather and fold the "T" the more even the tension will be on your skin.
(No picture.) 7. Check and adjust tension. Once everything is clipped together, check and adjust the tension of the strap. It is very important not to use too much tension! Skin damage, such as tearing and bleeding, can result. The point is to use sufficient tension to cause the restoration, but it should be in no way painful, and should not be so strong that you experience any tearing or significant irritation. You can adjust the location of the strap to increase or decrease the tension. Unfortunately, knowing how much tension to use is up to you, and there is not some sort of scientific approach that works for everyone. Use your judgement and common sense! If it hurts, stop immediately, check everything, and continue only after you're sure you have not caused any injury, however minor. Then reduce the tension! Don't be a restoration idiot: do not continue if it hurts or if there are obvious signs of injury!

How it Looks

Here is a t-tape attached to a waist strap. The strap wraps around the waist, and clips to underwear, pants, etc.
Here is a t-tape attached to a shoulder strap. This is generally the type of strap used during sleep, since it isn't very confining to movement or comfort. Erections are also easily accommodated; this is shown by the inset in this picture.

 

Introduction

Making the Strap


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