and Strap Method: Making the Strap
In the time I've used the t-tape and strap restoration method, I've gone through several revisions and interations and styles of elastic straps, trying to find what's the most comfortable and easiest to use. The results of my efforts are reproduced here.
You can do it most any way you want to, as the point is merely to have tension on the t-tape at all times. One end of the strap assembly serves as an anchor, the other clips to the t-tape. As such, there are probably dozens of possibilities. Humans are inventive by nature, and you shouldn't hesitate to experiment, and try some variations on what's here.
Since there are so many ways to go about making the elastic strap, I've decided, for now, not to include specific instructions for a particular model or type. Rather, I'll describe in general terms what's needed, where you can get it, and how you might approach making one.
Something I should mention... The entire approach to t-tape and strap means that confining underwear is out. Boxer shorts are about the only option. As shown in the pictures in the t-tape section, you'll need to bring your penis through the fly and clip on the strap. Or, if you're using a leg strap, it can go down the leg (put everything on, then pull up your underwear and pants). This may already be obvious, but I thought I'd mention it.
Some guys have had some success stretching out the leg opening of jockey shorts (Y fronts) and wearing that. It depends on the brand, you may wish to try it if you prefer this style of underwear.
Leg straps are a fairly simple concept. Basically you use a band of material around some part of your leg, then use a piece of elastic with a suspender clip on the end to connect to the t-tape.
I've tried a leg strap that straps around my leg just above the knee, and one that straps around just below the knee. Of the two, the one that straps below the knee is most comfortable, but I can't say I like either one. The tightness around the leg is fine when you're sitting still, but walking or moving around a lot with it gets fatiguing fast, but I have trouble with my sciatic nerve, and found that the leg strap is merely exacerbating that pre-existing problem.
The other down side to the leg strap is that the tension is uneven when you walk, so you get this tug, relax, tug, relax action going as you move along. It's annoying, but not uncomfortable. Sitting tends to let the thing relax too much.
In any event, the best leg strap configuration I found is to craft the part that goes around the leg out of the nylon woven strapping material I mentioned in the supply list. Using elastic for this part doesn't work well. When I made mine, I measured around my leg at the site of the strap, added 2 inches (5 cm), and stitched Velcro onto the two sides of the overlap.
Then, I measured from the strap to the end of the t-tape, and deducted 2 inches (5 cm). I sewed the elastic perpendicular to the leg strap, and then sewed a suspender clip on the other end of the elastic. The length of the elastic is what controls the amount of tension on the t-tape, so you may have to make adjustments to compensate for the amount of tension you like, and for variation in elastic "give."
Pictured above is my leg strap. The various important elements are identified. The nylon strapping is used to go around the leg, and elastic to connect to the t-tape. While I sewed-on the elastic at the site of the Velcro in what's pictured here, that didn't prove to be the best idea. I'd recommend sewing it someplace else, oriented to allow the Velcro "joint" to be on the front of your leg for the greatest comfort.
This is really the best approach in my experience. It's comfortable, easy to wear and adjust. The only down side is that if clipped to underwear, as is common, you'll find that the underwear tends to rotate around your waist in the direction of the applied tension, so periodic adjustment (shifting your underwear back around) is necessary throughout the day.
The general concept is simple. This one uses two suspender clips, one on each end of the strap. One clips to the t-tape, to other clips to clothing somewhere along the line. You can clip that to your boxer shorts, or to the inside pocket of your jeans, whatever is handy. You can get a real good idea what this is about by looking at the pictures shown in the t-tape instructions.
There's lots of ways you can do this, the easiest being to simply to use a piece of elastic and sew the suspender clips one on each end. I don't like this, because I may not be able to securely clip the end opposite the tape in the same place all the time.
What I used is a length of the nylon strapping material, and a length of elastic. I sewed a few inches of one side of the Velcro to one end of the elastic, and the other Velcro side to one end of the nylon strapping. Then, I put a suspender clip on the end opposite the Velcro on both the strapping piece and the elastic piece. The Velcro makes it adjustable, so within the available surface area of the Velcro at least, I can clip the elastic end to the t-tape, the strapping end to a piece of clothing, and then join the Velcro together to get the desired tension.
I've found that even 1 inch (2.5 cm) of joined Velcro is plenty to securely hold everything at the tension I use.
In any event, having the Velcro there makes "quick disconnect" convenient when using the bathroom or whatever. It's also easier to put on in the first place.
Here's my waist strap. With the lengths I used (which I'll note in a moment), I clip the nylon strap side to the left side of my boxer shorts, wrap it around my back side and clip it to the t-tape. The Velcro joint ends-up on my right side. Once connected, I find it easiest to "fine tune" the tension by using the Velcro, overlapping it more for a tighter fit, or overlapping it less for a looser one.
I really like the Velcro there, since it's a lot easier and faster to adjust it, instead of clipping and reclipping the suspender clip that attaches to my underwear.
My lengths are about 12 inches (30 cm) of elastic, and roughly 15 inches (38 cm) for the nylon strap, but I'll confess that I merely guessed on both when I made it. Each piece of Velcro is 4 inches (10 cm) long, and is sewn on as outlined previously. Assuming that 1 inch (2.5 cm) of Velcro contact is sufficient, the 4 inches (10 cm) of Velcro yields 6 inches (15 cm) of total length travel way more than enough for fine tuning (or even coarse tuning!) of the tension once you clip everything together.
This is one variation I've not tried. It's preferred for night time use (unless you wear clothing to bed I don't). You can see the bottom end of one in one of the pictures above. In the commercially available system, the strap clips onto the t-tape, goes over your shoulder, and the other end clips to your boxer shorts or other garment. I'm not planning to explore this one, since I don't wear the system at night and don't want to.
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